fetchingfinches
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Posts posted by fetchingfinches
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I also like to add in pairs if possible.
Furthermore, it help to move around the enclosure (branches, etc) beforehand. This sets new territories.
If moving items is not possible- then add in a potted plant, or some fake vines, etc. once I Even used a old sheet hanging and some bolt mount braches for parrot cages with a old houseplant on the bottom of the enclosure.
then add your new guys. Of course these extra items can be removed in 48 hours or so. But it sets new territories- as you are adding males.
Furthermore I often provide extra resources-seed dish, plate of fresh veggies/ fruit (cucumber, collard greens and apricot are very good). It keeps them busy and can reduce stress.
I personally add toward the end of the day. A couple hours before sunset to figure out where resources are- but then at dusk everyone calms down, and in the morning they are all equally confused of the new arrivals/enclosure.
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Welcome!
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Nice- that is one sexy piece of equipment
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Any photos?
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Thanks for the info. Glad to hear from someone who has had them.
I'm really thinking this is a lightback female chick. She is different than her brothers - lighter (silver looking) on top and quite white underneath - where she is clean. The nest is very messy and the chicks are the dirtiest I have seen yet, so it may be a while before I get pictures up.
Lightbacks look very different- IMO. But can sometimes be confused with Silvers (Dominant Dilutes). Some people think they look like fawns- I dont agree at all.
They should have a darker head, almost fawn back and white belly with black markings. Lightback, Fawn and Cream
Same group slightly older:
Here is a lightback female:
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Photos would be great. Would love to see your Phaeo pair, im actually looking for someone to adopt mine out.
*I always buy in 3 pairs (6 birds at a time) and quarantine a bit before adding to the rest of the flock.
That way if 1 is ill, I dont risk my entire flock. 40 is quite a bit to start with, especially since 40 (20 pairs)- will soon be around 120 full grown birds. Better have your wallet open... haha, never underestimate how much ping long balls can eat.
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My lightbacks have had black beaks. Black tail, black beak.
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I think your missing the point its simply not practical or affordable for most people. Good husbandry will be a far better preventative for most diseases
I did miss the point- too tired/middle of the night. Oh, and my typo (autocorrect on iphone). Made me laugh. Just want to be clear....
I was not talking about Asians. 'Avian' lol
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Generally, the theory that you are unable to determine cause of death in Asians is outdated. Same with humans- there are simple markets which you can use to determine even death from stress. 15 years ago- when I was in study, they were not capable, but we know more now.
As an example- we were unaware of how or what hormone was released during stress that caused death- Now that we understand it, we can track it.
Of course there are exceptions to this rule, and I see your point, but generally ordinary veterinarians are not equipped to make a call such as this... You need specialists.
There may be a language barrier as well as cocci where I come from is a Protozoa that lives in the intestine (contracted usually from the ground).
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Zebra finches, by design are actually quite hardy birds in comparison.
When a bird (or any animal dies) You can take them for necropsy, and they will tell you definitively.
But I'm glad the OP has found a method that works, and wish you (and your birds) the best
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A member asked me to look at this post. I am not going to comment because my scientific mumble jumble would ruin the effect.
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Good to know. Cheers
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Confirm humidity is over 50% in brooder to prevent dehydration
First 12 hours- NO FOOD (feeding at this time can cause death)
12-24 hours give electrolyte solution with a pinch of formula (still like water) every 2 hours (ensure yolk sac is digested before proceeding with thicker formula)
2-6 days 1 part formula to 3 parts water
day 7 switch to 2 parts water to 1 part formula
formula per feeding should be 10% bodyweight, crop should stay FULL with the exception of allowing it to empty once every 24 hours. I have very detailed instructions on my site: http://www.fetchingfinches.com/dedicated-breeders
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I am not familiar with that product- I gave it a quick google and found 'some' information but it was rather vague.
It says 'bakery products' so I am assuming it is not corn based and the protein amount seems good,. The instructions on the bottle however are for parrots-
Mixing formula to that specification would increase the chance of death considerably.
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I specifically say... and you heard me taught it
instructions are not worth the paper they are written on.The box, especially if you are using Katee Exact (in my experience) is not meant for passerine. The BMR of passerine birds is generally about 65% greater than that of non-passerines (parrots), nutritional requirements are different and their body temperature is about two degrees higher (around 42°C) and therefore is digested differently.
That formula is made for parrots- not seed eating ADHD little birds.
People can argue one way or another. They may have used it with success.....but........ (this is a brash example) 'My father ate candy every day and never became a diabetic'. Doesnt mean that excess sugar is a good thing........and it doesnt mean that the choice of formula- or the ratio of administering is a good idea.
Dont think that 'would still be here'
That is a terrible thought Emmy- I know your heart, and I know you are sad but dont discredit yourself. He wouldnt have made it as far without you.
*Many hugs your way from my flock.
I use Pavodan (but I am adding many things or make my own with good success). But I would say try and purchase Lafeber's Instant Nutri-Start- many places will ship (too expensive for me to ship as I go through a tub of formula every 3 days!).
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Corn based formulas are really meant for parrots- not seed eating birds - while people may use it, it is not ideal. I used a corn based formula in the past- but there was too much of a glucose fluctuation. I make it a point to not lose a single hand fed baby (still have a clean record, and I hand feed ALL my babies, currently there are 23 little ones and more on the way to give you an idea) so I was able to find a formula with a better base ingredient.
But I looked at your other posts and images (blog)- the chick was severely dehydrated. And 'not pooping' means it was not being fed enough (at 6 days old- that is minimum 3 night feedings- I still keep it at 4). The crop should only empty once every 24 hours (while the chick is sleeping). It takes about 2-3 hours for the crop to empty. Hypoglycemia sets in minutes, not hours with these little guys.
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It is a indication of proper humidity/temp and stimulation/dietary.
They should have the same amount of fluff. Check to see if it is matted down on the skin (can often happen). But if it is void, check to make sure you are not using a formula that is corn based.
That 'leather" look is dehydration- no doubt about it. Take action now- make sure humidity is at least 50% and baby should be fed every hour (through the night as well) with a short break for the crop to empty overnight (4 hour break).
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It is a indication of proper humidity/temp and stimulation/dietary.
They should have the same amount of fluff. Check to see if it is matted down on the skin (can often happen). But if it is void, check to make sure you are not using a formula that is corn based.
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Welcome!
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Just want to add. That bird is stressed/sick. Looks like it could be more than plucking- the male *could be plucking because she is weak from illness. That overly fluffed/dipped perching is not good. While it could be caused by plucking.... that kind of stress seems more medical.
Might want to check droppings and diet.
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Do you allow them to build a nest? ie they have a nest and nesting material? He might be gathering 'material' for his nest or going 'stir crazy'
Emmy has a good idea... I also use burlap strands and tie them to perches, sides of cage, etc to keep the males from going stir crazy (or prevent insane nest building).
Are they getting enough natural light? I find that if they dont get enough natural light, it makes the cock get a little stir crazy as well.
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Make sure the water is not deep- they enjoy 'splashing' in water. Also check your room temp- if it is too cold, they don't bath as often.
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Yes, they often will.
Basically I have seen them feed anything that is crying... (including cocktails, lol)
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Picture?
10 days old- are you hand feeding? aspiration and respiratory infection come to mind. Title says 'swollen' and post says 'blocked'
Is there a residue in/aroudn the nasal area, or just swollen shut?
Need a photo.
Has Anyone Seen This Before?
in Breeding
Posted
I had a trio once with the zebs... two males one female. When push came to shove after the nest was built and the eggs were laid (pipping), male aggression took over and the two males (also brothers) tried to kill one another.
Zebs (unlike societies) are fairly aggressive for their size. Napoleon complex.