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dannyboy2012

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Posts posted by dannyboy2012


  1. Did you condition your birds before, pairing together??

    If so they might be over conditioned, ie they had a really rich fiet and now they just need to settle back down again, I had this a few times.

    The easiest way was to reduce the high amount of protein egg food and any other treats and just stick with basic seed, this will help, in a week or two should see improved signs.

    If not remove them and repair, however if doing this you need to wait 2 weeks before repairing the hen bird, as she can hold sperm for upto 2 weeks I believe.

    Dan

    • Like 1

  2. Mike, are you thinking about breeding them in the same cage, if you are I would advise against it.

    Because having too pairs you will always get 1 pair fighting with the other, instead of nesting, but because they will be competing for space nesting sights, you will have bad results.

    I would suggest having 1 pair per cage. When I was breading I used to live by a rule that was 1 or 3 pairs never 2 per cage because off that reason.

    If you have 3 pairs then the likelihood off the same birds being attacked is drastically reduced because they cant remember who they where fighting with.

    Dan


  3. Hi Stephen,

    Could it be down to him being a spilt that the colours wont fully show one or the other, black or orange, as for the speck of orange on his cheek patch this could be down to the same thing.

    I know when I had some splits the cheeks and marking where not totally shown, for instance on hens there tear drop would be slightly thicker, but going towards the back of the bird it would show slighly faded cheek patches, as it the tear drop had been smudged, along the cheek area.

    Dan


  4. If it's possible more the hen to a showcage/ smaller cage and provide warmth, and a noise free area, she should look more perky in a few hours, you can also add honey too there water but the water may need to be warm for the honey to dissolve properly, if you have any glucose tables, and can dissolve into there water this would also work as it will be like the product called spark from the bird care co, if you have spark use it, also provide millet soaked.as this will give her nutrients if she's won't get to the perch to the drinker, and arthropod should be provided as an incentive to eat as I know my birds couldn't resist it.

     

    Hope I've helped.

     

    Dan 


  5. Once I close ring mine I check everyday I case it comes off ladt year I left it for 2 days and you know it the ring wouldn't go on, once you've done it a few time you can look at there feet and think not quite yet.

    Hope it helped.

    Dan


  6. Last year was my first year breeding and showing like U Andy, I didn't really have any problems with them feeding, I have lights on from 6.50/7.00am till about 9/9.30pm and replenish egg food twice daily and they seamed to do quite well, but what works for me might not work for you.

    dan


  7. I haven't paired up yet just conditioning atm, I did notice last year it took some time for certain cocks/hens to produce anything worth while, and some never did even when I swapped partners, so im hoping to start a little earlier than last season as I was rushing to finish my shed in may last year, but improve the number on the sticks.

    Just a quick question do you pair Experianced birds with not experianced so they have a better chance off raising chicks??

    Cheers Dan


  8. Dale, as you said about the cock bird attaking a chick with I different colour, feather I had the same problem with mine I was breeding a cfw cock with normal hen, I had 4 normal cocks and 1 cfw hen from this pairing, and the cock bird seamed to attack the cfw hen bird, I can just presume it was because off the colour and thought it was an imposing bird.

    As for bengies yes they are great for fostering, I have used them my self, but if you do remove the chicks as soon as they have been weaned if not they may pick up the bengie song and it might be really hard to find jt a zf partner.

    I have pit chicks and eggs under them and they seam to raise them fine, Steve has 1 that's I fostered under bengies, as my BC and cfw pairing wouldn't feed anything, they would hatch then either throw them or not feed em.

    Cheers Dan


  9. Hi Wayne,

    James is right in what he says, but U say it has fawn cheeks, so this would be a fawn cheek, to sex a Zen can be done several ways.

    First the cheeks, but if you have black cheeks, fawn cheeks, grey cheeks and cfw cheeks.

    Secondly you can use the chest barring and flanks, as mainly only cocks birds have these, but you can get poorly marked hens that show slight chest bars and side flanks.

    Thirdly you can use beak colour, cock birds are a really bright red compared to a hens orange.

    Hope ive helped any more questions fire away fella.

    Cheers Dan

    • Like 1

  10. Not really any tips.

    When I tired it they just bread, but 1 think tho you might notice that there nesting material moves from 1 boc to the other really easily as they are really, bad for doing this and also, you might find that the dominate pair may only breed, as the cock or hen may stop the others from doing so.

    Cheers Dan


  11. Hi Andy, like bad said above I have used cod liver oil on seed, to condition my birds I have also used it in there egg food with no I'll effects, on hot summer days I change my egg food twice aday as my shed hits highs off 36 with windows and doors open, and a fan on and I haven't had any problems with the food going off, but I must admitt that I do change and clean all egg food pots every 2-3 days.

    I have tried them with vits added to there egg food aswell, for my gouldians benefit more than my zebs, and in my case I have food it less effective, maybe the reason said above about them not eating it if they dont fancy it where as seed they have no choice.

    I am going to try a few pairs off gouldians using cod liver oil/seed mix and a couple using the vits/seed and see what happens will keep you posted.

    Cheers Dan